Cambodia is a small country in the middle of SE Asia, with a modest access to the sea. Main character is its central lake, named Tonle Sap, which can triple of size between the dry and rain seasons, with a ten meters high peak between the seasons.

Not hard to say that this lake is the heart of Cambodia, together with the Mekong, which is flowing from Laos to Vietnam, through Cambodia, signalling its capital, Phenom Pehn.

I visited Cambodia for the first time in 2004 (9-7 > 17-7), using bus, pick-ups and motos. It was a liberating trip, from Poipet to Koh Kong, in that newly born and capitalistic place. I returned there five times, but since I rented a motor-bike, which gave me another sight over the country.

Where I have not been : SW mountains between Pailin, Koh Kong and Pursat, NE mountains, and the far north.